Goldmyer Hot Springs via Middle Fork Trail #1003

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Our Hiking Time: 10h
Total Ascent: 2000ft (1000ft out)
Highest Point: 2100ft
Total Distance: 22 miles
Location: N 47° 28.9320, W 121° 23.0520
Required Permit: Northwest Forest Pass
Difficulty: Moderate

We’ve spent a lot of time in the Middle Fork Snoqualmie Valley the past few years. We’ve climbed mountains, followed creeks to spectacular waterfalls, and explored hidden lakes. But, despite hearing a lot about it, we had not yet made it out to one of the valley’s signature destinations: Goldmyer Hot Springs. As autumn continues to bring cooler temperatures, we set out on a short overnight to see the springs before winter set in.

Goldmyer Hot Springs is named for William Goldmyer, who purchased the land around the hot springs and built a lodge for local lumberjacks and miners around 1900. The lodge eventually became something of a resort, and the hot springs were expanded. Back around the turn of the 20th century, mineral springs were big business as people sought them out for their restorative properties. The resort operated for many years, supported by a railroad that made access much easier than it is today, as well as emerging hydroelectric technology that powered the encampment. Eventually the resort closed, the land changed hands, and the hot springs went into decline until the ‘80s when a nonprofit group bought the land and began a program of resident caretakers that continues to this day.

Currently, because of a road closure, access to Goldmyer is a 10 mile riverside stroll following the Middle Fork Trail #1003. This trail is extremely well maintained. The effort that trail volunteers put into it is readily apparent in the extensive network of bridges and boardwalks. Although there are a few ups and downs, for the most part the trail generally follows the remnants of old logging roads and is fairly gentle. Wander under alders, hemlocks, and big leaf maples, and take advantage of breaks in the canopy to see Mt. Garfield, the granite cliffs of Stegosaurus Butte, and Mt. Thompson. Cross roaring creeks, tumbling cascades, and the occasional wash-out before reaching Goldmyer and a well-earned soak.

There are two approaches to the hot springs. Both follow the Middle Fork Trail for 6 miles to the Dingford Creek Bridge. At this point, you can continue on the Middle Fork Trail for another 4 miles to Burntboot Creek and a log crossing to the Goldmyer property. Alternatively, you can cross the bridge and follow the Dingford Creek Road 4 miles to Goldmyer. The forest road is not as enjoyable as the trail, but a couple unbridged creeks can be difficult to cross when waters run high during the spring thaw or heavy rains.

The hot springs themselves are fairly small. Probably no more than 10 people can fit in the various pools at any one time. Perhaps for this reason, Goldmyer limits camping to 20 people a day and groups to no more than 12. Although a reservation is not strictly necessary, it will guarantee you a campsite during the busy summer season. Check out goldmyer.org for more details.

This is a great hike for beginning backpackers. The ease of the trail and the comfortable destination (the tent sites are well groomed, the nearby river makes for easy access to water, and an enclosed outhouse borders on luxury) make it easy to convince the skeptics that backpacking is a lot of fun. Moreover, the Middle Fork Trail is really a pleasant journey that takes you though some of the best portions of the valley. The Middle Fork Trail route also allows for some interesting side trips for those looking for a little extra. At the 5-mile mark, you reach Cripple Creek and a mile-long scramble up to Tin Cup Joe Falls. At just over 8 miles, the trail intersects with the Rock Creek Trail #1013.1, which leads out to Snow Lake and Snoqualmie Pass.

To get there, take Exit 34 off I-90 and take a left on 468th Ave. Follow the road past the truck stop for about a half-mile until you reach SE Middle Fork Road, also known as Forest Road 56. Continue to follow the twists in the road until the pavement runs out. Continue on FR 56 for 11 miles, to the Middle Fork Trailhead parking lot. The trailhead and Gateway Bridge are at the north end of the lot. - Nathan

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Denny Mountain Trail - Alpental Ski Resort

Our Hiking Time: 6h 30m
Total Ascent: 2500ft
Highest Point: 5608ft
Total Distance: 4.5 miles
Location: N 47° 26.3400, W 121° 26.6400
Required Permit: Northwest Forest Pass
Difficulty: Hard

At some point, after doing a number of hikes nearby, we decided that we’d looked at Denny Mountain’s mile-long ridgeline enough times to warrant an excursion to the top. Despite some cloudy weather, we headed out to Alpental to tackle the steep slopes and check out the summit before the ski season set in and closed the mountain to hiking.

There is some argument over which member of early Seattle’s Denny family the mountain was named after. Most assume everything “Denny” is named after Arthur Denny, though his brother David spent considerable time in Snoqualmie Pass staking mining claims. Whichever Denny it was, since 1968 most people know the mountain slopes as the Alpental Ski Area. Famous for very steep and very challenging runs, Alpental was a destination for wintertime thrill-seekers from the moment it opened.

Unsurprisingly, Denny Mountain is much less famous for hiking. Equally unsurprising, there is no real trail to the top of Denny Mountain. Occasionally a trail will be hacked through a particularly dense patch of huckleberry, but mostly the uphill trudge is an exercise in finding the path of least resistance. Ski slopes are less friendly when the snows disappear. Rocks and shrubs cover the mountainside, and resorts tend to leave things wherever they happen to fall, knowing that snows will obscure old boards, pieces of concrete and derelict construction equipment. The evidence of decades of skiing make most of the lower mountain less pleasant to hike through.

We followed the Armstrong Express chairlift up through the clouds to the base of the upper mountain. Although mostly successful with route finding, we still found ourselves neck-deep in bramble or backsliding on a loose patch of scree. While challenging, the first half of the hike is manageable without too much trouble. The upper mountain is an entirely different story. Be prepared for an all out bushwhack up gullies and small cliffs. Small hemlocks and huckleberries served as much needed handholds as we slowly worked our way up the mountainside. Thankfully, a few short plateaus give some relief from the slog.

Attaining the true summit can be slightly tricky, as it requires wiggling through narrow opening between the rocks. Once through enjoy the views of Snoqualmie Mountain and Guye Peak. And, if you’re lucky enough to make the climb on a less cloudy day, your 5,522’ perch should provide some excellent views of the Snoqualmie Valley and Mt. Rainier. Ignore the weather instrumentation and savor the rewards of a difficult hike.

This hike is probably better done in snowshoes, as the snow will smooth out most of the rougher aspects of the hike. If, like us, you enjoy the adventure and extra challenge, Denny Mountain certainly has more than enough of both to satisfy most hikers. Aside from those gluttons of punishment however, Denny Mountain is a difficult hike to recommend to anyone else. Somewhere on the slopes of the upper mountain the amount of effort the hike demands surpasses the reward. If you’re looking for a rigorous hike and some views, Snoqualmie Mountain is a much better choice.

To get there, take I-90 to exit 52. From the exit, take a left onto Alpental Road for about two miles to a large gravel parking lot. The unmarked trailhead is across the road to the left. -Nathan

Iron Horse Trail - John Wayne Pioneer Trail

Our Hiking Time: 3h 30m (biking)
Total Ascent: 450ft
Highest Point: 2400ft
Total Distance: 18 miles
Location: N 47° 23.5620, W 121° 28.4400
Required Permit: Discover Pass
Difficulty: Easy

Snaking along mountainsides from North Bend to Snoqualmie Pass and beyond, our hikes often involve treading on some portion of Iron Horse State Park. Sometimes referred to as the “backbone” of the Mountains-to-Sound Greenway, the 21 miles of the Park that lie between Hyak and the Cedar Falls Trailhead at Rattlesnake Mountain are quite popular, seeing thousands of hikers and bikers a year. We decided it was time to tour this portion of the Park. Because we’d already hiked sections of it, we opted to bike and experience the trail a little differently.

The 110-mile long Iron Horse State Park follows the railbed of the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul & Pacific Railroad. The park is the developed portion of the John Wayne Pioneer Trail, which continues out to the Idaho border. The Milwaukee Railroad went bankrupt in 1977, and Washington State slowly acquired the land. By the mid-1980s the process of converting the railroad to a multi-use trail had begun.

One of the most popular attractions over the years has been the Snoqualmie Tunnel, often referred to as Tunnel 50.  The two-mile tunnel was bored between 1912 and 1914 by 700 men working from either side and meeting in the middle. After its conversion to a park, the tunnel made for a spooky addition to a hike or ride – dark enough to require a flashlight to navigate, and complete with dripping water, echoing conversations, and the chill of being underground.

Unfortunately, there is no real detour around the tunnel closure, so we had to improvise. We parked at the Annette Lake Trailhead and pushed our bikes two-thirds of a mile to the Iron Horse Trail. Once we got going the ride was a breeze, passing old snow sheds and depots and going over trestles, the relics of the Milwaukee Railroad that add flavor to the flat trail. Although it’s impossible to escape the dull roar of I-90, dozens of creeks and streams offer nice stopping points to trade the noise for the sound of rushing water. A number of campsites also dot the trail, offering a few comfortable places for the long distance hiker or biker to bed down for the night.

Iron Horse State Park is a great way for anyone to experience the Snoqualmie Valley. Whether hiking, biking, jogging or just passing through on your way to another destination, it has something to offer everyone. The wide path also makes this a great way for a larger group to do an activity together and avoid walking single file down the trail. The compact gravel means that the park is stroller and wheelchair friendly.

To get there, take I-90 to exit #32 and turn right, following Cedar Falls Road three and a half miles to the trailhead. Alternatively, when the tunnel reopens, take exit #54 and turn right to Highway 906, also known as Road 2219. Take a left for a half-mile following the signs to Iron Horse State Park. -Nathan