Little Annapurna via Aasgard Pass

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Our Hiking Time: 2 Days
Total Ascent: 5800ft
Highest Point: 8450ft
Total Distance: 16.2 miles
Location: N 47° 28.0740, W 120° 48.8700
Required Permit: Northwest Forest Pass, (See overnight permit information below)
Difficulty: Hard

Last summer we visited The Enchantments via Colchuck Lake and Aasgard Pass. Among our stops was the summit of Little Annapurna, one of a number of prominences surrounding the Upper Enchantment Lakes. A climb to Little Annapurna’s summit is rewarded with breathtaking views in every direction and offers one of the better vantage points to see both the Upper and Lower Enchantment Lakes that together make up the Enchantment Basin.

The first recorded ascent of the mountain was in 1947, when it was dubbed “Little Annapurna” by the Sherpa Climbing Club of Ellensburg for a resemblance to the Annapurna of Himalayan fame. Little Annapurna is often accessed from Colchuck Lake via Aasgard Pass (officially named Colchuck Pass), a low saddle between the shoulders of Enchantment Peak and Dragontail Peak. The pass was likely named by Bill and Peggy Stark, who first visited the region in 1959. The couple returned every year for the next 35 years, naming features along the way, and ultimately drawing a topographical map labeling those features in 1967. While the US Board of Geographic Names officially adopted some of the Starks’ names, they did not adopt them all. However, many hikers and hiking guides prefer the Norse and Arthurian names chosen by the Starks, and their references to them can confuse the uninitiated. We use both for clarity.

From Colchuck Lake, continue following the Colchuck Lake Trail #1599.1 (sometimes referred to as #1599A) around the lake toward the base of Aasgard Pass. As you round the lake, the trail snakes into a talus field and the route moves from the ground to the tops of massive boulders. Alternate between the rocks and short sections of narrow trail hacked through the lakeside brush to the base of Aasgard Pass. From here the route becomes challenging. The route is steep and can be treacherous under certain conditions, as most of this portion of the trail is boulder and scree. Some route finding skills will be needed as shifting rock can topple cairns and obscure the trail. Unless you have a lot of experience and training, avoid an ascent in the snow.

From the base of the pass follow the cairns as they charge steeply upwards and to the left, passing over a creek buried under the rocks and eventually reaching the left cliff face. From here the route pushes further up and drifts back toward the center of the talus field, eventually crossing a small grassy meadow complete with a waterfall. Keep climbing upward, keeping an eye out for cairns on this last and often confusing section of trail. Eventually you’ll catch glimpses of Little Annapurna peeking over the top of the pass just before you reach the top. Take a moment to look down at Colchuck Lake shimmering over 2000 feet below before turning for your first glimpses of the Upper Enchantment Lakes.

From Aasgard Pass, the trail enters a grey moonscape of talus, rock and glacial till, contrasting with the stark white of the Snow Creek Glacier and the icy blue of the lakes. Press onward and quickly find Tranquil Lake (Lake Freya) and a view of the largest lake in the Upper Enchantments, Isolation Lake (Brynhild Lake). From here the trail begins to descend deeper into the basin, passing lakeshores and eventually depositing you into sprawling alpine meadows riddled with ponds and streams. The Starks called this area the Brisingamen Lakelets, and we can only call it enchanting. As you near the end of the meadows, keep an eye out for an unsigned trail heading to the right toward Little Annapurna. If you cross a small stream and a sign for the toilet, you’ve gone too far.

The route up Little Annapurna is more of a collection of well-worn paths than a trail. Cairns mark the way, though they are easy to lose and sometimes mark multiple routes. When in doubt, follow the path of least resistance up the left side of the mountain, switchbacking and scrambling as needed. Eventually you will be rewarded with commanding views of the Enchantment Basin: Dragontail Peak is to the northwest along with Aasgard Pass and Mt. Baker in the distance. Find Enchantment Peak directly to the north, with Prusik Peak and the Temple to the northeast rising above portions of Perfection Lake (Rune Lake). To the east McClellan Peak looms above Crystal Lake. Immediately to the south find the sharp points of Pennant Peak and The Flagpole with Mt. Rainier in the distance. Turn to the west to find Mt. Stuart and Argonaut Peak just to the left of Dragontail Peak. Do a little exploring and find your favorite vantage point to take it all in - you’ve earned it.

Little Annapurna is one of the most approachable peaks in the Upper Enchantment Lakes area. While the trail is sometimes thin or nonexistent, the climb is not technical and there is a minimum of actual scrambling. In the summer, the grassy summit offers plenty of room for hikers to find a quiet place to enjoy the scenery or spend the night. At the same time, this climb is not for everyone. If you’re not comfortable with some route finding and some scrambling, you may want to skip this one. Otherwise, we recommend you set aside enough time for a trip up Little Annapurna during your next visit to the Enchantments.

Note that permits are required for both overnight and day use within the Enchantment Permit Area.  Day use permits are free and avaliable at the trailhead.  Most hikers will choose to camp at Colchuck Lake before heading up Aasgard Pass, which will require an overnight permit.  There are three methods of obtaining a permit, outlined on the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest website.

To get there, take US 2 to Leavenworth. Just before you enter town, take a right onto Icicle Creek Road (FR 76). Follow Icicle Creek Road for just over eight miles to Eightmile Road (aka FR7601). Turn left and follow the gravel road over Icicle Creek for about 4 miles to the road’s end and the parking area for Colchuck Lake and Lake Stuart. Trailhead at the far end of the lot. -Nathan

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Snow Lakes Trail #1553 to Enchantment Lakes

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Our Hiking Time: 9h
Total Ascent: 4200ft
Highest Point: 5500ft
Total Distance: 13.6 miles
Location: N 47° 29.1540, W 120° 44.9100
Required Permit: Northwest Forest Pass, Enchantments Permit for overnight stays
Difficulty: Hard

One of our backpacking excursions last fall took us into the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and up to The Enchantments. While we have backpacked through the region before, this was the first time we have been able to experience the fall colors and the changing of the seasons. Our approach took us up to Snow Lakes, a popular stopover point for those heading up to the Enchantments Basin.

Back in the 1930s the construction of the Grand Coulee Dam had an immediate impact on salmon runs. The Bureau of Land Reclamation worked to solve the issue through fish hatcheries, one of which was built on Icicle Creek to release into the Wenatchee River below the dam. Unfortunately, the Bureau quickly realized that fluctuations in the water levels of Icicle Creek would cause problems for a sustainable hatchery. The problem was a lack of cold water; the solution was to tap the nearby Snow Lakes seven miles upstream.

In 1938 the Forest Service cut a trail up to Nada Lake and the Snow Lakes and a base camp was established on Nada Lake. From 1939-1942 crews worked to drive a 9-foot wide, 2,250-foot long tunnel through solid granite under Lower Snow Lake to the bottom of Upper Snow Lake. At the same time, a small dam was constructed to regulate the water levels between the upper and lower lake. Today, water drains from the bottom of the 150-foot deep Upper Snow Lake to a bulkhead where it is funneled into a pipe and shot out toward Nada Lake. A series of valves controls the amount of water discharged. On average the system is in operation 77 days a year, usually between July and October, and releases an average of 3,700 acre-feet of water.

The hike to Snow Lakes begins from the parking lot by following a maintenance road over Icicle Creek and past concrete canals. From the road the trail begins a slow switchback up into the sloping canyon. As you climb, evidence of the fires that ravaged the area in 1994 can still be seen. The skeletons of charred trees line the trail, though after nearly 20 years the underbrush has obscured much of the damage. However, the underbrush has yet to grow up enough to provide much in the way of shade, so this first section of the hike has a lot of sun exposure, making it hot and dusty during the summer.

As you leave the burn area and the faint smell of ash behind, the trail enters a pine forest and bends closer to Snow Creek, providing access to occasional creekside rest stops. Around the two mile mark the trail meanders past large cliff faces that are frequented by rock climbers and soon begins to veer up the rocky canyon slopes. Continue another two miles through talus fields, scattered sections of forest and brush-lined sections of trail to the sturdy footbridge crossing Snow Creek. Soon find yourself sharing the trail with Nada Creek as you push up to the marshy end of Nada Lake. While most hikers press onward to Snow Lakes on their quest to reach the Enchantments Basin, some choose to overnight in the quiet solitude of Nada Lake. Several campsites line the lower section of the lake. If nothing else, the shores of Nada Lake are an excellent resting point to recharge for the final push to Snow Lakes a mile and a half up the trail.

Continuing onward, the trail quickly and steeply rises up the slopes above Nada Lake. If water is being released from Snow Lake, you will see the spray gushing from the cliffs above Nada Lake. As you get closer, at a switchback in the trail, a bootpath leads out to the tunnel and the control valves for the drainage system. Push upward through rocky terrain to the relief of the forests that surround Snow Lakes. The trail leads across the small dam that controls the water level between the lakes. Depending on the time of year, Upper Snow Lake may be quite low, exposing sandy shores covered in the bleached wood of fallen trees. The craggy heights of The Temple rise dramatically above Upper Snow Lake creating a scene that epitomizes the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. Many campsites can be found around both lakes.

Snow Lakes is a decent backpacking destination unto itself, though most folks undertake the dusty trek with the intent of pushing upward into the Enchantments Basin. Because permits to overnight in the core Enchantments Zone can be hard to come by, the Snow Lakes make a perfect base camp for day hiking the area by using the more easily obtained overnight Snow Lakes Permit. Somewhat challenging, this trip is best taken in the company of those with at least some wilderness and backpacking experience. It can be done as a long day hike, though we recommend against it. The difficulty of the trail on a hot summer day combined with the chance that Upper Snow Lake could be low and somewhat less than majestic probably makes this a little too much effort for one day. Save this one for a short overnight or as part of your exploration of the Enchantments Basin.

To get there, take US 2 to Leavenworth. Just before you enter town, take a right onto Icicle Creek Road (FR 76). Follow Icicle Creek Road for just over four miles to a large parking lot on your left. Park and find the trailhead at the far end of the lot. -Nathan

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