Spray Park and Spray Falls

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Our Hiking Time: 5h 30m
Total Ascent: 1600ft
Highest Point: 6400ft
Total Distance: 8.0 miles
Location: N 46° 55.297, W 121° 49.135
Required Permit: National Park Pass
Difficulty: Moderate

One of our longer overnights this summer involved a visit to the the Mowich Lake area. Popular and easily accessible, Mowich Lake serves as a jumping off point for a variety of adventures ranging from multi-day backpacks to short day hikes. Perhaps the most impressive destination is a sprawling series of alpine meadows on the northern flanks of Mt. Rainier known as Spray Park. Complete with a stunning waterfall, fields of wildflowers, and the mountain’s sparkling glaciers, this is a hike you will never forget.

Around 105,000 years ago, vents opened on the northern side of Mt. Rainier, which spewed a layer of hard lava into the surrounding area and formed the foundation of Spray and Mist Park. Today we know those vents as Echo Rock and Observation Rock. Around 1881, the Northern Pacific Railroad became interested in the northwest portion of Mt. Rainier and sent a geologist named Bailey Willis to look for coal and to see if the area was suitable for tourism. Part of Willis’s expedition involved cutting a trail from Wilkerson to Mowich Lake that became known as the Grindstone Trail. From Mowich Lake, Willis explored the region and by 1883 he had built a route to Spray Park, the Bailey Willis Trail, and led visitors up into the alpine wonderland.

It was likely during the construction of the Bailey Willis Trail that Spray Falls was first found. At the falls, Spray Creek tumbles hundreds of feet down steep cliffs to break into a misty spray of water. The creek, falls, and park are all named for this display. Over time, the Bailey Willis Trail to Spray Park was eventually replaced by the Spray Park Trail used today, though there are still a few sections that follow the old route.

From the Mowich Lake camping area, the well-signed trail begins by descending into a forest of cedar and fir rising out of a blanket of greenery. After a few switchbacks and .2 miles of hiking find yourself at a junction with the Wonderland Trail. Veer right, following the sign that points toward Spray Park and Eagle’s Roost Camp. Legions of boot steps keep this trail clear and easy to navigate as it crosses over creeks and traverses forested ridges. After another 1.2 miles arrive at the Eagle Cliff Viewpoint, a small area where trees have been cleared to offer a lovely view of Mt. Rainier. This is a good place to drop your pack for a short rest before continuing onward.

From Eagle Cliff, continue another .5 mile past Eagle’s Roost Camp to the spur trail leading out to Spray Falls. This short side trip is not to be missed, and adds less than a half-mile of hiking. Descend down to Spray Creek and crane your neck to take in the tumbling falls. Slightly better views are possible if you can find an easy way to cross the creek. After you’ve taken in the namesake falls, head back up to the main trail and get ready for a climb. The trail begins a series of tight switchbacks straight up the mountainside.

After .7 miles of climbing, cross Spray Creek and enter the edge of Spray Park. Wander through a meadow and follow the trail as it continues to open up, getting that much better with every step. While it is hard to find a stopping point that isn’t stunning, we recommend you continue to climb and leave the crowds behind. Press on to the high point of the trail that divides Spray Park and Seattle Park, roughly 4 miles from the trailhead. Here you’ll find big views of both parks and a side trail that leads out to Observation Rock. No need to follow that trail too far -- a short scramble will get you face-to-face with the mountain.

Whether you’re visiting Spray Park for the day or just passing through on your way to your next campsite, the experience is sure to linger. For that reason, you can expect a lot of company during the summer months, though the crowds thin the further you press into the park. This hike should be approachable for most hikers, though the elevation gain may put it out of reach for very young or inexperienced hikers. If you haven’t been, make a trek through Spray Park’s meadows part of your next backpacking excursion.

To get there, take I-5 South to I-405. From I-405 take SR 167 south toward Auburn. In 20 miles take the SR 410 Exit toward Sumner/Yakima. Follow SR 410 for 12 miles to SR 165. Take a right and continue on SR 165 for about 10 miles through Wilkeson and Carbonado to the Carbon River Road/Mowich Lake Road junction. Veer right onto the Mowich Lake Road and follow for 16.2 miles to the end of the road and the trailhead. -Nathan

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Weekend Hike Calendar 2015!

For the 4th year in a row, we've put together a great calendar to inspire a different hiking trip every weekend in the new year. The Weekend Hike Calendar 2015 recommends a different hike every Saturday in 2015 that we've chosen specifically with the season in mind.

Of course all the hike details, including directions, history, and photos can be found on hikingwithmybrother.com or in our new book Hiking Through History Washington. A full preview of the calendar is below and we hope you pick one up this holiday season.

Be sure to check Lulu.com for promotional discount codes! -Jer

Tolmie Peak Lookout

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Our Hiking Time: 3h 20m
Total Ascent: 1100ft
Highest Point: 5900ft
Total Distance: 5.4 miles
Location: N 46° 57.444, W 121° 52.867
Required Permit: National Park Pass
Difficulty: Moderate

One of our longer overnights this summer involved a visit to the the Mowich Lake area. Popular and easily accessible, Mowich Lake serves as a jumping off point for a variety of adventures ranging from multi-day backpacks to short day hikes. Among the day hikes, a hike out to Tolmie Peak Lookout is among the most popular. With iconic views of Mt. Rainier and an operational fire lookout towering above an alpine lake, this hike should be on every hiker's bucket list.

Back in 1833, the newly hired Dr. William Fraser Tolmie arrived at Fort Vancouver to begin his tenure with the Hudson Bay Company. He immediately set off for Ft. Nisqually, a trading post situated in the Nisqually Basin. On his trip north, he caught his first glimpses of Mt. Rainier and made the decision to visit the mountain in the coming months. In August of 1833, Tolmie set off on a “botanizing excursion” with a number of Native American guides. The first European to explore this area, Tolmie was the first to report the mountain’s glaciers. During his trip, Tolmie climbed an exposed peak to get a better view of Rainier. Tolmie Peak is named in honor of that climb, though most historians now believe he was climbing up Hessong Rock.

In 1883, the lake below Tolmie Peak was dubbed Tolmie Lake. However, when it came time to map the area, the name was changed to Eunice Lake in honor of Mrs. W. H. Eunice Gilstrap, a frequent visitor to the area and wife of a Washington historian. Over time, the need for fire lookouts in the foothills around Mt. Rainier became increasingly apparent. Park officials quickly found that outposts on the mountain itself were often made ineffective by the cloud cover that Mt. Rainier is almost constantly creating. By the 1930s the Civilian Conservation Corps was hard at work building several lookouts, including the Tolmie Peak Fire Lookout that went up in 1933. Named a National Historic Place in 1991, today rangers staff the lookout on summer weekends to interact with visitors.

The trail begins from the Mowich Lake parking area, quickly dropping down to the lake and meandering along the lakeshore. Soon the well-trodden path slips deeper into a vibrant forest and begins to climb leaving the lake behind. After a few switchbacks and a mile of hiking reach the Wonderland Trail. Eunice Lake and the lookout are to the right, but before you head that direction, take a left and walk the few hundred feet to Ipsut Pass and the Ipsut Creek Basin. Once you’ve had a look, head back to the junction and continue onward.

From here, the trail becomes a bit more challenging, dropping slightly before climbing steeply up the mountainside. Press upward through a series of tight switchbacks before the forest begins to thin and you find yourself wandering through alpine meadows. After .9 miles of hiking, reach the shores of Eunice Lake. Take a few minutes to explore the shore and find the lookout perched on the cliffs high above the water. When you’re ready, gather yourself for the last steep push to the lookout. It’s another 600 feet or so to the top, but it is well worth the effort. While the views from the top are commanding in all directions, you’ll be hard pressed to look at anything other than the snow covered mountain that fills most of the southern horizon.

Popular and not too challenging, Tolmie Peak is a good choice for most hikers. There is something for everyone on this one. Not only is the view of Mt. Rainier spectacular, but Eunice Lake is a destination unto itself. During the late spring and summer, wildflowers are abundant in the meadows around the lake. The popularity of the hike likely means you’ll be sharing the summit, but the landscape is distracting enough to make it unlikely that you’ll notice the crowds. If you haven’t been up to Tolmie Peak, make sure to put this one on your list for next season.

To get there, take I-5 South to I-405. From I-405 take SR 167 south toward Auburn. In 20 miles take the SR 410 Exit toward Sumner/Yakima. Follow SR 410 for 12 miles to SR 165. Take a right and continue on SR 165 for about 10 miles through Wilkeson to the Carbon River Road/Mowich Lake Road junction. Veer right onto the Mowich Lake Road and follow for 16.2 miles to the end of the road and the trailhead. -Nathan

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Little Bear Trail at Lake Chelan State Park

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Our Hiking Time: 1h
Total Ascent: 250ft
Highest Point: 1350ft
Total Distance: 2.3 miles
Location: N 47° 52.325, W 120° 11.851
Required Permit: Discover Pass
Difficulty: Easy

A few months ago we spent a weekend checking out a handful of hikes around Lake Chelan. Our tour included everything from creekside trails, windswept mountain tops to quiet state park walks. Our visit to the Little Bear Trail in Lake Chelan State Park was easily the most sedate of the trip, but this family-friendly walk managed to pack a variety of landscapes into just a few miles of hiking.

The 127-acre Lake Chelan State Park is situated on the shores of Lake Chelan and is divided by the South Lakeshore Road.  For generations, Native Americans called this area home and the park contains a few archeological sites from that era. The park is also host to a cabin once owned by John Stevenson, one of the area’s earliest homesteaders. According to the Washington Parks Commission, most of the land that now makes up the park was acquired as a result of a court settlement in 1943. The issue involved a real estate scheme that involved selling investors “lakeshore” property that was in reality nowhere near the lake. While the park’s focus has long been on Lake Chelan, in recently years other areas of the park have been developed including the Little Bear Trail. The trail is named after the bear cub that was spotted by rangers as they surveyed a route for the trail.  After that encounter, the cub became something of an unofficial mascot during the trail’s construction and the trail was eventually named in honor of the cub.

From the parking area, the trail sets off into the woods and quickly into a short tunnel beneath South Lakeshore Road. Once through, start wandering under a pine forest that has remained largely untouched since the park's creation in the 1940s. After a few minutes of walking, you will find yourself at a junction. Heading right will take you down the Forest Loop, whereas heading left will take you down the Bitterbrush Loop. You can go either way, though we suggest heading left and making a wide loop that includes both trails.

After you head left, you will soon will pass another junction.  This is the turn off for Forest Loop that leads to the upper reaches of the trail. Ignore it and continue onward. As you progress, the trail  leaves the shelter of the forest to trek through Eastern Washington Ponderosa pine savanna.  Here you'll find grassy areas punctuated with Ponderosas and bitterbrush, as well as decent views of the lake. Eventually you’ll hook back toward the woods and spend time wandering under the Forest Loop’s canopy before finding yourself back at the first junction.

Short, easy, and close to Chelan, this hike works well if you’re looking to break up a weekend at the lake. Complete with a number of interpretive signs, this is also a nice choice if you have youngsters in tow. While not a destination unto itself, if you find yourself with a little extra time in Chelan, a short hike might be a great way to stretch the legs before a long car trip home.

To get there, take I-90 to Exit 85 to Cle Elum/Leavenworth. Cross the freeway and head right on WA 970 toward Leavenworth as it merges into WA 97. As WA 97 ends, merge on US 2 toward Wenatchee following signs for US 2 and WA 97. In West Wenatchee, follow signs for WA 97 ALT. Once on WA 97 ALT, continue 23.5 to WA 971, taking a left and following to South Lakeshore Road after 9.1 miles. Take right and immediately find the park entrance on the left. Turn and find parking near the trailhead. -Nathan

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Chenuis Falls

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Our Hiking Time: 3h 30m
Total Ascent: 400ft
Highest Point: 2200ft
Total Distance: 7.6 miles
Location: N 46° 59.5499, W 121° 50.5740
Required Permit: National Park Pass
Difficulty: Easy

We made several trips out to the Carbon River Valley this past summer, trekking out to see glaciers, rivers and plenty of waterfalls. Our tour included Chenuis Falls, one of the more popular and easily accessible destinations in the area. With creekside access to a big cascading waterfall and a thick forest of cedar and hemlock to shelter the trail, there’s plenty to see on this low impact hike.

Chenuis Falls tumbles down the side of Chenuis Mountain just before Chenuis Creek joins the Carbon River. The name “chenuis” has been attached to this area for quite some time, and it is thought to be of Native American origin. While we were not able to find a definitive answer, it is believed that it was named in honor of a prominent tribal leader. When the Carbon River Road was open, hikers could drive directly to the Chenuis Falls Trailhead and park, allowing hikers to make a short .2 mile jaunt to the falls with very little effort. Since the Carbon River Road closed in 2008, grass has grown and covered the Chenuis Falls parking area, though it is still easy to see where it was.  The road closure is likely to be permanent, which means a visit to Chenuis Falls now requires an additional 3.7 miles of travel to access.

The hike begins from the Carbon River Entrance, following the Carbon River Road through a temperate rainforest of fir and cedar. The road provides access to a number of hikes, and many people opt to bike the road to cut down on travel time, though there is something to be said for the more leisurely walk through the woods. Flat and wide, the miles pass quickly and easily passing the Green Lake Trailhead after about three miles. The Chenuis Falls Trailhead is just another half-mile or so beyond. The well-signed trailhead will be on your left.

Turn off onto the Chenuis Falls Trail and begin to cross Carbon River's wide and rocky riverbed. A log bridge allows access across the rushing water, though the unruly river has been known to carry the bridge away on a fairly regular basis. If there is no bridge, we do not recommend you attempt to ford the river. Check with the ranger station to make sure the bridge is in place. Once across, the trail quickly leads to a rocky area with excellent views of the falls. Settle in for a snack and enjoy the sounds of the water.

Almost entirely flat and easily accessible, Chenuis Falls is perfect for hikers of any age. With the closure of the Carbon River Road, Chenuis Falls has become a hiking destination rather than simply a roadside pit stop. As a result, you can expect a little company on this hike. Still, the falls are well worth a visit whenever you’re in the area. If you’re looking to extend your day, you can head back to the Green Lake Trailhead or push further into the Carbon River Valley and visit Ipsut Campground.

To get there, take I-5 South to I-405. From I-405 take SR 167 south toward Auburn. In 20 miles take the SR 410 Exit toward Sumner/Yakima. Follow SR 410 for 12 miles to SR 165. Take a right and continue on SR 165 for about 10 miles through Wilkeson and Carbonado to the Carbon River Road/Mowich Lake Road junction. Veer left onto the Carbon River Road and follow for 7.7 miles to the Carbon River Entrance of Mt. Rainer and parking. -Nathan

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Ipsut Pass via Carbon River Road

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Our Hiking Time: 9h
Total Ascent: 3300ft
Highest Point: 5100ft
Total Distance: 17.2 miles
Location: N 46° 57.0419, W 121° 52.0980
Required Permit: National Park Pass
Difficulty: Hard

This past summer we had the chance to explore a number of trails in the Carbon River area, including portions of the Wonderland Trail. Our Wonderland travels included the Isput Pass Trail, a long trek following Isput Creek up to a secluded mountain pass. Easily one of the more challenging hikes in the area, the upper portions of the route have ample views to distract you on the way up.

“Ipsut” is Chinook Jargon for “to hide” or “keep secret." While Ipsut Pass is somewhat hidden, some form of the Ipsut Pass Trail has been in use for generations. Early Europeans followed well-worn game trails up to this notch between the shoulders of Gove and Castle Peaks and the Wonderland Trail has included a trip over Ipsut Pass since its construction in 1915. In 1925, the Carbon River Road and the Ipsut Creek Campground opened to the public, allowing an easy car camping option along Ipsut Creek for the first time. Between 1933 and 1934 the Civilian Conservation Corps built the Ipsut Creek Patrol Cabin that still stands near the campground. Then, in 1935, the Lake Mowich Road was completed eliminating the need to climb over Ipsut Pass to access areas near Mowich Lake and Tolmie Peak. Today, the Ipsut Pass Trail still sees plenty of hikers, but many use the Mowich Lake Road to avoid the elevation gain on this steep approach.

The hike begins from the Carbon River Entrance, following the Carbon River Road through a temperate rain forest of fir and cedar. The road provides access to a number of hikes, and many people opt to bike the road to cut down on travel time, though there is something to be said for the more leisurely walk through the woods. Flat and wide, the miles pass quickly and easily, passing the Green Lake Trailhead after about three miles and the Chenuis Falls Trailhead another half-mile or so beyond. The river is your constant companion as you push past these popular day hikes toward Ipsut Campground. The campground is a good place to stop for a breather or to set up camp if you’re planning on a longer trip.

From the campground, the road quickly transitions to trail, and the lush forest closes in. The trail remains almost flat as you cross over a number of creeks and streams each with varying water levels. Stroll for a half-mile to a spur leading out to Ipsut Falls. As the name suggests, the falls are a little hard to see, but it’s worth a few extra minutes to catch a glimpse of the roaring cascade tucked into this rocky gorge. Once you’ve taken a look, head up the trail to the junction a few hundred feet to connect with the Wonderland Trail. Veer right and uphill toward Ipsut Pass and Mowich Lake.

Now the work begins. Everything between the junction and the top of the pass is up, up, up. Some portions are steeper than others, but expect the next 3.3 miles to be an uphill battle. Initially you are confined to the forest, but as you climb the trees give way to open expanses of greenery and underbrush, allowing increasingly better views of the valley below. As you near the top the trail begins to steepen and switchback steadily upwards. The rocky trail runs along exposed cliffs before depositing you at the forested pass. Venturing a few hundred feet over the pass will connect you to the Mowich Lake Trail. Find a welcoming spot to enjoy the view and a hard-earned snack before heading back down.

The elevation and distance on this hike make it a little better suited for an overnight trip than a day hike. Still, a healthy portion of the distance can be covered by bike, which can significantly reduce the hiking time. At the same time, the difficulty of the trail means that you’re likely to be hiking through a lovely landscape without many others. If it's solitude you seek, consider taking on this challenge. Note that if you have two cars, you can also make this a through hike by parking your other vehicle at Mowich Lake, which is only a mile from Ipsut Pass.

To get there, take I-5 South to I-405. From I-405 take SR 167 south toward Auburn. In 20 miles take the SR 410 Exit toward Sumner/Yakima. Follow SR 410 for 12 miles to SR 165. Take a right and continue on SR 165 for about 10 miles through Wilkeson and Carbonado to the Carbon River Road/Mowich Lake Road junction. Veer left onto the Carbon River Road and follow for 7.7 miles to the Carbon River Entrance of Mt. Rainer and parking. -Nathan

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